Thursday, April 14, 2011

Spring brings good news

It's Spring here in the South of the North. The snow has essentially melted except for areas that don't get much sun. The rivers are flooding their banks and the waterfalls are incredibly powerful.


Almost all the ice has floated down the river and out to sea and the lakes will soon be clear.


And our good news? Erik received tenure as principal bass in Kristansand Symfoni Orkester on April 12th, six months to the day after he began his trial period. On the same day, we officially added another couple to our musical family - John and Amanda Harrison. They come from South Carolina and New Jersey respectively and were most recently living in New Zealand. John just passed his preliminary trial and will be on trial as a member of the bass section next season. We hope to hear Amanda playing her horn as well one day soon. He likes to fish and she enjoys knitting. I think it's meant to be.


Sunday, January 2, 2011

Happy New Year!

Well, another year has gone by and we find ourselves much farther north than we were at this time last year. I guess we like extremes. The temperature difference is about 40 degrees Celsius. This year we celebrated Christmas with Karen's parents in our new home, Norway. We are renting a lovely historically-built house near Birkeland, which is about 20 kilometers north of Kristiansand which lies near the southernmost point of the country.


View Nesset in a larger map

In October we began settling in and even though there are still many boxes to unpack and a few more rooms to organize, we are really starting to feel at home. The temperatures have been pretty frigid (down to -26C/-15F with about 40cm of snow on the ground), so sometimes it's a full-time job to keep up with the heating which we do mostly by wood because the electricity prices are pretty atrocious. 

 House from the front with landlord's car.

We love our house. It's larger than we need, but the price is right, the setting is gorgeous and it's a once-in-a-lifetime chance to live like this. Nothing short of the lottery would ever allow us to afford something this nice when it comes down to buying a home for ourselves. And of course, we'd have to play the lottery in the first place...

Our entry-way is lorded over by Henry, our personal welcome committee. In any other house, he wouldn't necessarily be welcomed by me, but considering the setting, he fits right in.

Henry

We love our kitchen. It's enormous with a table for 10, a 100-year-old wood stove, a large island and hand-painted cabinets.

Kitchen

Antique stove

The living room is spacious and full of atmosphere. There's also a newer wood stove in one corner which heats the place up quite nicely. 


Living room

The house is full of great details from the window/door frames on the outside to each door in the interior. There's a whole wing upstairs which we call the "Moose Wing" based on the animal depicted on the door. That's where we keep our guests. They have a large bedroom and their own "stue", but it's a bit cold to use that room in the winter.

 Door to the "Bunny Room" in the "Moose Wing"

  Outside detail around window frame
  
The views are pretty unbeatable. To the west we have a lake, the Flakksvann, which we see from our kitchen window. On the other side, and just a 3-minute drive, is the town of Birkeland which has basic facilities. To the south is the valley of a river (Topdalselva) which flows all the way, direction Kristiansand, to the ocean.
 
 View of Flakksvann

Topdalselva valley
We've had a very relaxed time of it for the past 10 days. Even my parents are sleeping late, we've taken some gorgeous drives and eaten great food and have even unpacked the skis. More tales with pictures to come of those adventures (and I promise to sit down soon and tell the story of our "flight" from Qatar). But for now, a few more seasonal pics...

Christmas tree chopped down on our landlord's property.

 Kransekake for New Year's Eve


Wishing you all the best for 2011!

HAPPY NEW YEAR! 

FROHES NEUES JAHR!
 
   GODT NYTT ÅR!   
Karen and Erik

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

In Memory of...

Our summer has been just about everything you can imagine. Difficult, adventurous, traumatic, sad and unfortunately only relaxing for a few days. On August 28, after spending three weeks by her hospital bed, we lost Erik's mother Eila to a series of strokes preceded by a battle with cancer. She was an amazing woman and a fighter to the end and we are very grateful to have been there as she went to be with the angels.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Getting Out, Part I, a.k.a. "Plan G"

I'm so exhausted, I can hardly think, but I thought I'd at least share some information and photos with you.

Plan G - actually we don't even know for sure if it is Plan G, but sooner or later, when things have actually started to work and there is some peace, we'll write a list of our different plans to get out of Qatar. Be that as it may, Plan G is the following:

July 23: Karen flies to Amman, Jordan and is driven to a hotel in Petra. Why? No time to get her Saudi Visa.
At the same time, Erik drives to Petra through Saudi Arabia

July 24: Erik arrives in Petra in the wee hours of the morning, gets some sleep and we go see the sights.

July 25: Travel to Egypt by ferry over the Red Sea from Aqaba to Nuweiba. The reason for this is to avoid two border crossings because there is a tiny strip of land on the Red Sea between Jordan and Egypt belonging to Israel. Drive towards Alexandria and overnight where possible.

July 26: Drive the rest of the way to Alexandria and check the car in at the ferry in the afternoon for the 8pm launch towards Venice.

July 29: Arrive in Venice at 8am. Drive immediately to Munich to start import procedures.

July 30: Endless paperwork in Munich, all of which has to be done by closing time at noon.

July 31 or August 1: Drive to Cologne

August 2: Drive to Kristiansand, catching ferry from Hirtshals at 10:45pm.

August 3: Arrival

So, we received our export license on Tuesday...


It's only good for 10 days, so we've got to hurry!

We went through weeks of planning to try to find people who would issue us insurance. We were told that we would get 10 days of insurance for the Middle East from our Qatar company along with our plates, but that turned out to be false. All we got from them is insurance to the border and the certificate was under the name of "Earek Wer". "Wer" did they get that??? Apparently it's the car's insurance, not ours, so as long as the car data is correct, it's fine. We have to buy liability anyway at the borders, but that means we're running around without comprehensive for several days. From the US we were able to get comprehensive for once we get into Europe. From Luxembourg, we were able to get 3rd party liability. When we get to Germany, we have insurance ready to go, but first we have to go to customs (probably), have the car inspected, register the car and get plates and Erik has to register in Germany again. There's an order to this, but I can't remember what it is. You'll have to ask my husband. The one troublesome point in the import procedure is that the Germans say they want a certain form, EU0600 "Unbedenklichkeitsbescheinigung" (yes that's one of those endless German compound words), from the Italians and the Italians claim they have no clue what it is and that we can come into the country without any trouble at all. It took my dear harpsichordist Sergio two days of calling around to figure this out and even he isn't satisfied with the answer.

So, last night we packed up, behind schedule, and of course determined that it wouldn't all fit. Erik comes back in September anyway. He will have to bring his road bike back to Europe then. He has another bike in Cologne. We also have the Qatar apartment until September, because after tons of rigmarole, we will get paid what they owe us, but Erik just has to come back for the expatriation procedure which he can do without me, but with one of my passports - another story for another time.

Erik took me to the airport this morning. Everything went smoothly for me, but not at all for him. He spent probably 6+ hours at the Saudi border going back and forth between the Saudis and Qataris dealing with paperwork and just when he got the last paper from the Qataris, the Saudi office that needed it closed for the day. The result? He is in no-mans land sleeping on an air mattress between the two countries waiting for the office to open at 8am tomorrow morning. So much for Petra. Gentleman that he is, he made me promise to see it for us both and try to enjoy myself and have a nice evening with a nice meal and enjoy the sunset. VERY HARD. I won't really be able to relax until we are on that ferry. Egypt is still a big nightmare because we don't know what they are going to demand at the border. We think something called a "Carnet de Passage" which, of course, the Qataris don't know anything about. So, we don't have it. We just have export papers and whatever Arabic papers Erik got today.

So, I attempted to enjoy the evening. Hard but, that's how it is.

Here's the sun over Petra.


Going...


going,


gone.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

4 Blogs in 4 Days?

Unheard of. Not since the beginning of the blog have I blogged so much. Today I spent the afternoon with a dear friend who humored me and took photos of my most recent creations.

I love to knit.

Knitting is relaxation for me. Without it, I'd probably be in the loony bin by now. I always have to have a project going, even if I don't know who it's for. Someday it will tell me.

Knitting is a good companion activity for a musician - especially a traveling one. I spend a lot of my time on planes, trains and buses. If it's a plane with movies, I turn one on and knit away. If it's not, I turn toward an audio book on my iPod.

Knitting makes it possible for me to actually sit down and watch a movie or television series without feeling guilty for not being productive.

Knitting is addictive. If I haven't done it for a few days, I start to get restless. In spite of my enormous collection of yarn, I always seem to need more. There's not always just the perfect skein for the project I want to make. So, the collection of yarn grows.

Knitting is a social activity. Months before we moved to Doha, I already had e-friends there through Ravelry - it's way better than Facebook. Unless it's extremely complicated, one can talk and knit. In fact, I often have two projects going simultaneously - the semi-mindless one that can be accomplished while talking and the complicated, don't-talk-to-me-while-I'm-counting one.

Knitting fosters friendship. Through knitting I met one of my dearest friends.

And above all...

Knitting is tangible. One can feel the needles and the yarn in one's hands. When the project is finished, one has something useful and lasting that will bring joy to me and the recipient. Being a musician is great, but when the concert is over, the most one can expect (and hope for) is to have a nice memory.

So, the proud knitting mama just has to show off some of her most recent babies. Many thanks to Maschenkunst for the photos.

 
Zauberschall

Lace-edged Corset

Featherweight Green Sweater

Happily surrounded by yarn.

Any requests?

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

On the Positive Side...

On the Positive Side...one of the most enjoyable parts about being in Qatar was the weekly Doha Knitters gathering. This was a combination Quatsch-ing, idea-sharing, show-off, yarn-untangling, moaning (about the lack of yarn shops), drooling (about what so-and-so brought back from wherever) and pure knitting session. Each Monday we met (and they still meet) at a different knitters' house. The hostess provides a simple meal and we eat whenever we're hungry and can drag ourselves away from our stitching. This was a life-saver for me and something I really looked forward to each week.

Here is a photo of our last session before I left a few weeks ago. Sadly, there won't be any more Mondays when I go back  next week shortly to do the last packing and expatriation. The menu for the evening was lasagna and a fantastic red velvet cake. On the coffee table you see the knitting night essentials - a plate with cake on it, balls and skeins of yarn, knitting needles and empty wine glasses. Some of the ladies had left before it occurred to me to take a photo, but most are still there. On the left and in the process of winding a skein of yarn, is Kelly, hostess of the evening and American mother of four boys, the youngest of which is on the lap of Tracy, another American. In the freshly-finished green shawl (Clapotis pattern for those of you who are interested) is Kirsty, a Brit, standing next to Kiwi-Kirsty. The newest member, just working in Doha for the summer is Jordan. Sarah is standing behind her (could that be a scarf made of Noro yarn around her neck?). To the right is our untangler, Berta. She's a Canadian who has been in Doha for ages - I think something like 11 years. Or was that 7? Doesn't matter - seems like forever to be in a place like that.

I'll miss these ladies, my only non-musician friends in Doha. I'll just have to gather another such group in Kristiansand. Watch out Norskies!

Monday, July 12, 2010

Boxing Day(s)

Well, we have lots of boxing up and moving to do. Ten days ago we flew from Doha back to Germany bringing as much as we could possibly fit in our luggage, while still trying to keep under our combined weight allowance of 70 kilos - not an easy task without a scale. Although we had to do some reorganizing at the airport because the bike case we filled with paintings was too heavy, we managed to get all our art work, all DVDs, several questionable books (in terms of the Saudi border crossing, at least) and some things we just don't want to risk losing should we have border problems or be broken into along the way.

Along the way...

What do we mean by that? Well, our plan is to drive all the way from Qatar to Norway in Tigger (which we paid off two weeks ago, by the way). But that is for another blog...

Anyway, my mother has been asking for pictures of our Doha apartment building from the outside. I finally got one!!! 


Our apartment is directly ahead on the fifth floor. We have half the larger windows to the left in our living room and the guest room is window to the right. Our bedroom has an even smaller window even farther to the right, but you can't see that in the picture. Tigger is the blue car parked in the lower right-hand corner of the picture.

Unfortunately, we never got any pictures of the living room painted and with our paintings. It looked fabulous. Here is a photo nonetheless.


And here's the kitchen - with packing mess, bicycle case, open dishwasher and the hand of Erik. Notice the dishwasher BETWEEN the clothes washer and dryer. Brilliant idea! I'm being sarcastic in case you were wondering.


It should be pretty easy to pack the last bit. We just have the clavinova, a few kitches things, clothes, books, CDs and music left. Oh, and a bike and sports equipment. I guess the car will be pretty full, but we plan to pack at least one or two work days in advance in case we end up having to make a trip to the post office.

So, for the past 10 days, I've been back in Cologne and Erik spent a week here as well, having realized that we won't have much time to pack up the Cologne apartment later. So, it's been boxing, tossing, dismantling furniture, tossing, going through clothes, toiletries and sewing stuff, tossing, trying to breathe in the heat of an attic apartment, tossing. You get the picture.

The lovely hallway...


Thank goodness it's pretty wide. There used to be an enormous bookcase to the right. Now it's in pieces to the left.

And the kitchen, which now houses the wardrobe boxes instead of the kitchen table.


We even found another use for the packing tape...
 

Sunday, July 11, 2010

A Blog a Day...

For those of you who long since went into withdrawal since life distracted us from keeping up with our blog, I vow to write a blog a day for the next three days. It may be short. It may be old news for some of you. It may be boring. But, I'm going to do it.

In honor of the FIFA World Championship game tonight, I just wanted to tell you about our football (soccer for Americans) fixation of the past month. Now, I have NEVER in my ENTIRE life watched a game from beginning to end. Erik enjoys it, but he certainly doesn't HAVE to watch it. Perhaps it has been a much needed way to ignore our complicated lives for a few hours at a time, but I would have to estimate that we have watched at least 40-50% of the 63 games played thus far. I must say, now that I understand it a bit better, I get more out of it.

Now, in the beginning we were popping back and forth between Vienna and Munich. Erik was getting treatment from his own well-trusted doctors for his knee problem and working off the part that the insurance doesn't cover by playing with MCO in Vienna. That was fine. In Vienna we could go to the cafe below our apartment hotel if we wanted to see a game on a big screen. Then there was the quieter option of the TV in our room. We saw Germany totally cream Australia in an enormous hall in Munich. We had to stand the whole time, but it was worth it. Otherwise we watched huddled up in Erik's aunt's guest room while it poured down rain outside. The last night in Munich happened to be the year-end party of the Munich Philharmonic. At the end of the dinner, we watched with a bunch of Erik's colleagues who are all thrilled that he is coming back (even at 50%) next season.

Then it was off to Doha. Now, annoyingly enough, in a ploy to get people to buy cable or satellite dishes, Qatar blocked one or two of the few TV stations worth watching that we actually get in Doha. Of course, they were the ones broadcasting the games. We had three methods of seeing games there. One was the expensive method - the Spanish restaurant at the Hilton Hotel - one of the few places in Doha where one can actually get a glass of wine to drink to go along with some tapas. The second was a little corner bar at the Sheraton hotel. Erik had to "join" up to see that one and I managed to talk my way in part-way through the game because I had just been playing a wedding there. That was pretty weird. It was full of single men, I assume mostly hotel guests, and what we finally figured out must have been prostitutes looking for work. Talk about double standards... ANYWAY, the free option was an enormous air-conditioned tent in the souk (the market center/"old town" of Doha). That was a very interesting experience. We went there to see Germany absolutely clobber England. We were with a German colleague. In the front of the hall were low beach chairs. That turned out to be the family area. Even without kids, we profit from the system. Just looking around for seats attracted the attention of the guys working there and they made a couple single men move for us. Our single friend (a.k.a. "brother") was able to sit with us, albeit on the astro-turf-covered floor. It was a bit embarrassing the trouble they went to, but we weren't the only ones treated that way. It was a very comfortable way to watch. The only people in front of us were single guys laying on gigantic pillows and a few Qatari kids on the floor. If you look carefully, you can see them in their white thawbs in this picture:


The place was packed and, for me, it was somehow the most exciting game of the whole tournament.


This past week, we have been together in Cologne. We attempted to watch a game down at the cafe on the corner, but they had organized it badly and only the people right in front could see. We were even there 45 minutes early, but those tables had been reserved, so being early didn't help. We got frustrated and left right at the beginning. The consequence? We missed the German goal that happened within the first three minutes. Bummer! Of course they played it back again and again, but that's still not the same thing as real time. The rest of the games we also watched at home.

Now Erik is back in Doha doing his last "youth orchestra" concerts and running around organizing paperwork for us to leave and let me tell you, it's VERY complicated to leave that country. Thankfully, I think it will all work out. It's just a matter of exactly which day they'll have it done. We hope to drive out of there at 4am on the 23rd of July. We shall see...

In the meantime, I'll be blogging for the next few days. I promise.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Empty Promises

Sorry about my empty promise way back in (ehem) April of imminently writing more installments. Life took over with full force and it just didn't happen (obviously). You're not going to get a lot out of me right now either except the very good news that we are moving to...

...(drum roll, please)...

the land of elk and reindeer, 

home to trolls and nisse, 
 
the country of Grieg, Munch and Ibsen,

the homeland of my father, 

the most gorgeous country in the world,


NORWAY!



Ta-da!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Visitors

Once again, my apologies. It's been a long time. Our lives are absolutely crazy right now. I can't even begin to explain everything. However, I have indeed been thinking about things I'd like to write about. Most likely I'll go backwards for the next few blogs which I promise to write this week.

Visitors...we just had visitors from Germany. For much of their visit I wasn't even here. I was off on a strenuous tour in Europe (next blog topic). Erik was here most of the time, but on the same day I arrived back in Doha last week, he had to go to London. By the last day of their visit, all five of us were finally in house.

The theme that kept going through our heads was, "Yeah, but we actually have to live here." Of course when one is on vacation, one wants to have a great time - a good memory. Totally understandable. On the surface it looks great. Big apartment with no expenses (don't forget, we still have the expense of renting an apartment in Cologne), nice car, good pay with no taxes (which is going straight to the bank to pay off debts), warm weather (but seldom blue sky because the air is so full of pollution) and low work hours (but no way of planning the future because the schedules aren't known more than a few weeks in advance). Six months of living here gives one a very different impression from that of ten days of visiting.

As Western Europeans, it's simply a fact that we can't live the way we are accustomed. We knew that going into it. However, we see plenty of Arabs in Europe who, for instance, cover themselves. I am not being racist here. Rather, I am simply pointing out a double standard. Either we all accept each other or we all don't. This is even affecting our love life. Although once in a while we just throw up our hands and do it anyway if we are pretty sure nobody is looking on, we technically aren't allowed to hold hands or kiss in public. We tend to take our chances in the arrivals and departure areas at the airport.

The lack of basic human rights here is a real struggle for us. One of the hardest things is the lack of mobility. For me (Karen), it is in some respects easier. Since I'm not formally employed, I can leave by plane anytime. However, should I wish to drive out, the only way is through Saudi Arabia. I would not only need a visa, but must also be in the company of my husband, father or brother. Plus, I must cover myself from head to toe and I can't be the one driving the car. Since Erik is employed here, anytime he wants to leave, even if it's just for the day, he must have an exit permit which takes four days to process. We often ask ourselves what would happen if there were to be sickness or a death in the family and we need to leave immediately. For the first two months, Erik was completely without a passport. Thankfully, mine was only gone a few weeks. In a place like this, that feels like being naked.

This is a country in which you are lucky to accomplish one important thing a day. That is due to any number of reasons from bureaucracy to traffic to general attitude. The stock phrase here is "insha'Allah" (literally, "if God wills it"). That basically means anything from "it will happen" to "forget it". When you have to live with that everyday, it's not so "geil" after all (our German guests' favorite expression literally meaning "cool").

Our guests were waxing poetically about how nice they found the Qataris they've met here. It seemed to be based on just two things. Once, while crazily trying to walk in the heat along a road with no pedestrian pathway (mostly the case here), a Qatari picked them up and drove them home. That's because locals can't imagine going anywhere by foot. The other event was a ride through the dunes in the desert. Well, the guy was getting paid to do one of the few things they actually seem to like to do here - drive like a crazy person at a 45-degree angle. Of course he was nice. They paid him. Wracking our brains, it seems we have only really met one nice Qatari, and still, he is actually half Indian.

Yes, they look exotic and very graceful in their abayas and thawbs, but we just don't have a chance to get to know them. I'm sure there are many nice people somewhere in there but we have very little contact. When we came here we had such high hopes of becoming a part of their community, but it has proven to be impossible.

Our guests seemed to be surprised that we don't listen to local music in the car. First of all, there pretty much isn't any. Secondly, do we listen to schlager music in Germany just because it's German? No. We don't like it, so we listen to what we do like. Aside from Al Jazeera (the local and very good, internationally known news station), we listen to Alison Krauss and Handel in our car - no matter where we are.

Right now, we are just at the end of probably the best time of year weather-wise and I'm certainly glad our guests chose this particular time to visit. There is some green left from the cooler winter days and flowers are still blooming. It's warm enough to go to the beach to swim, but not so warm that stepping on the sand and being under the sun's rays is intolerable. But, when Erik arrived back in September, it was 45 degrees at night and if there was any vegetation to be seen, it was dry as a bone. Very soon, it will be back to that kind of weather and everything will dry up. That is what it is like 8-9 months of the year.

I don't want to go into detail on this blog about the professional nightmare we are experiencing here, but we are suffering immensely. Even if one knows one is right and is far above the level of the people who are doing the judging, it is #$*^ hard to keep one's integrity intact. Nobody here is being helped by pity, but we had hoped that we would receive some empathy from our guests - Erik's friends for some three decades. That was hardly the case. How could we possibly be so unhappy when everything here is so geil?

Suffice it to say, that in any real orchestra what is taking place right now simply could not happen. The very small, insecure people who have taken upon themselves to hold our future in the palms of their hands would simply be fired. The rest of the orchestra would stand up and say that the whole thing is completely unethical and there would be a strike. The administration would actually do something about it. Instead they are sticking their heads in the sand (and there's certainly lots of sand here). I repeat here my status on Facebook from last week:

Ethics, people! Think about the impact of your actions or even inaction! Other peoples' lives are not toys for you to play with. 

I leave you with something fun - a few pics from my gig last week playing for the opening of a Lotus showroom:

Two Loti in the Intercontinental Hotel parking lot.
Awfully small to compete with the Land Cruisers...



  The make-up job they did on me

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Here and there

My apologies to everyone. It's been ages since we've posted anything. We have a very good excuse. Lots of traveling.

My time in Salzburg ended with playing a fantastic Mozart mass in the Mozarteum. So far it's one of the musical highlights of the year, but the year is still young...

After Salzburg came concerts in Lyon and Grenoble and then Erik escaped the desert so we could both spend a few weeks in Norway. It was -10 degrees Celsius and there was lots of snow on the ground - sometimes even to blizzard proportions, but somehow that was a lot easier to take than +5 degrees Celsius and the rain that met us on our return to Cologne.

View of the bay

The frozen harbor

The view from my practice room

Bass buddies


Skiing with the maestro

We had a fantastic time with incredibly nice, welcoming and friendly people. The town is lovely.

But alas, Erik is back in Qatar now and I am on the road with Mahler Chamber Orchestra. It's been a bit stressful because I've had a few writing deadlines, but I've met them and from here on out it's smooth sailing. We're in Italy now, Ferrara to be precise. 

 The cathedral

 
Its tower


Small shops built against the cathedral wall

Tomorrow it's off to Sandland again, but not the Sandland you're thinnking of. This time I'm going to El Ain which is near Dubai and Abu Dhabi. That will put me near Doha and on Saturday I'll take off from Dubai at 9:10am and land in Doha at the same time. How's that for a quick flight?